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91 POINTS AND ‘A STEAL’ (ROBERT PARKER)

“My father was privileged to visit the beautiful appellation of Malaga in the south of Spain three weeks ago and he came back raving about one wine in particular. That wine was the 2015 Botani Moscatel! It was quite warm when he was there and this wine just hit the spot for him. A crisp, refreshing white wine that cools you down! (This week, we need a wine that does just that here in Los Angeles.) The wine paired wonderfully with the gastronomic delights he enjoyed in Malaga including a range of local products such as olives, almonds, grapes and raisins, fish, seasonal vegetables and fruits. One dish that stood out for him was Espeto: sardines that have been skewered and roasted over a barbecue pit. It also paired wonderfully with a classic dish from Malaga called Fritura Malagueña, where they use olive oil and fresh flour to fry a variety of fish including boquerones (anchovies), baby squid, and salmonete (red mullet). Dee-lish! In short, let this wonderful, refreshing white wine cool you down this summer! And if you feel adventurous, maybe try to make some Espeto and Fritura Malagueña for yourself and some friends. This wine is a ‘steal’ and is a joy to drink! Cheers! – Jim Knight, The Wine House
2015 Jorge Ordonez Botani Moscatel Old Vines
Malaga, Andalucia
91 Points Robert Parker
Release Price: $18
Wine House: $13.99!
A steal that I’ve been recommending for a number of years is the 2015 Botani Moscatel Old Vines. Totally dry and made from vines planted in 1946, 1968 and 1975, from the incredibly steep slate and quartz hillsides of Malaga, this is fermented with wild yeasts in stainless steel, where it’s aged and bottled after eight months sur lie. An incredibly gorgeous flowery bouquet alone would be reason to spend the $18.00 for this medium-bodied, super-fragrant and seductive, crisp, elegant wine. The old vines, the beautiful floral notes and stunning, delicate tropical fruits that the Muscat of Alexandria varietal (the oldest clone in the Muscat family) produces, are just something to behold. Not meant for aging, but for drinking in its first year of life, so take advantage of it. For those interested: this is fermented in total stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and bottled early to preserve its incredible aromatics.” – Robert Parker, August 2016

FROM THE PRODUCER

Tasting Notes: Vibrant straw color. A unique wine characterized by expressive aromatics of lychee, fresh stone fruit, white flowers.

Varietal: 100% Muscat of Alexandria. One of the oldest clones of the Muscat family and one of the only remaining genetically unmodified vitis vinifera cultivars remaining in the world today. The seafaring Phoenicians transplanted this grape from Alexandria, Egypt to Málaga 3,000 years ago.

Vineyards: Hombria, Pinar, Portichuela. The vineyards in Málaga are the most extreme in all of Europe. The mountainside vineyards are planted at inclinations of up to 70°. There is no terracing, ladders, or mechanization to assist with the harvest. The vineyards are worked completely by hand.

Year(s) Planted: Between 1968, 1975, and 1946

Viticulture: Traditional dry farmed viticulture. Organic Gobelet trained vines. Cultivated completely by hand, with minimal human intervention. The majority of the vines receive no treatments whatsoever.

Soils: Slate and white quartz.

Climate: Mediterranean climate. Temperatures reach an average high of 86°F (30°C) in the summer and an average low of 46°F (8°C) in the winter. Rainfall is extremely scarce, only reaching a level of 400mm per year.

Winemaking: Fermentation in stainless steel by wild yeast.

Aging: 8 months sur lie in stainless steel.
ABOUT BODEGAS JORGE ORDÓÑEZ MÁLAGA

Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez Málaga, located in Ordóñez’s hometown, was founded in 2004. A partnership between Ordóñez and the Kracher family of Austria, the winery was founded with the goal of resuscitating the centuries long tradition of winemaking in Málaga, which was destroyed by the phylloxera plague in the 19th century. It was Jorge’s dream to champion his home region and restore it to its former glory.

The winery has more than accomplished its goal by producing the Spain’s first and best dry Moscatel de Alejandría, Botani, and by reviving the tradition of unfortified sweet wine making in Málaga. Our series of sweet wines, N˚s 1 through 4, are amongst the finest in the world, and are produced in the style of the unfortified sweet wines of Málaga that were internationally renowned in the 17th through 19th centuries. In 2012, N˚2 Victoria became the first Spanish wine ever served at a Nobel Prize dinner.

Jorge Ordóñez Málaga produces its dry and sweet wines from Muscat of Alexandria, the oldest clone worldwide of the Muscat varietal. This is the original Muscat, which was originally cultivated extensively around Alexandria, Egypt, and planted in Málaga by Phoenician traders 3,000 years ago. Muscat of Alexandria is one of the world’s only remaining ancient (genetically uncrossed) grape varieties and the most important for commercial wine production. The Muscat of Alexandria vineyards used by Jorge Ordóñez Málaga were planted between 1902 and 1974 on un-terraced mountainside vineyards. The vineyards of Málaga are perhaps the most extreme and dangerous in Europe, due to the decomposed slate soils, and inclines of up to 70˚. The vast majority of steep vineyards in Europe have terraces or are mechanized in some way to protect workers and assist with harvest. The vineyards in Málaga have remained untouched. All pruning and harvesting is done by hand, and mules carry six 15kg boxes up the slopes at a time. An absolutely heroic form of viticulture.

In order to work with grapes that have high acidity, Jorge Ordóñez Málaga exclusively works with mountainside vineyards that are oriented away from the Mediterranean. In such a warm, dry climate, most grapes would completely lack balancing acidity. Furthermore, most of the winery’s vineyards are located at above 700m above sea level.

Jorge Ordóñez Málaga is also the headquarters for all of Grupo Jorge Ordóñez.

ABOUT D.O. MÁLAGA & D.O. SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA

The history of viticulture in Málaga stretches back to the Bronze age, when 3,000 years ago Phoenician traders transplanted Muscat of Alexandria from Egypt to Spain. These were the first vineyards ever planted in Spain, around the village of Malaka (present day Málaga), which they founded as well.

Muscat of Alexandria is the oldest clone worldwide of the Muscat varietal. It is the original Muscat, which was cultivated extensively around Alexandria, Egypt, and planted in Málaga by Phoenician traders 3,000 years ago. Muscat of Alexandria is one of the world’s only remaining ancient (genetically uncrossed) grape varieties and the most important for commercial wine production. The vineyards of Málaga are perhaps the most extreme and dangerous in Europe, due to the decomposed slate soils, and inclines of up to 70˚. The vast majority of steep vineyards in Europe have terraces or are mechanized in some way to protect workers and assist with harvest. The vineyards in Málaga have remained untouched. All pruning and harvesting is done by hand, and mules carry six 15kg boxes up the slopes at a time. An absolutely heroic form of viticulture.

The soils are extremely harsh and poor, characterized by decomposed schist (slate intermixed with quartz.) These soils are extremely slippery and make vineyard work very dangerous as the pieces of slate are extremely sharp.

Primary source records exist from 600BC, when the Greeks controlled this area, that reference local viticulture. The Romans expanded viticulture in the area, and fermentation tanks from Roman times have been discovered across the region. In the 11th century, an Arab historical geographer wrote about “the mountains covered with vines, uninterrupted as far as Mt. Xolar, results in one of the most beautiful views in the world.” Although production of wine was originally banned under Moorish rule, after realizing the economic importance of wine production and tasting the wines, the rulers claimed the alcoholic drink was a medicine, and consumed it as such.

In the year 1214, King Phillipe Augustus of France held a wine fair in Paris, where he tasted wines international wines for two months. He awarded the top honors to a wine from Cyprus, and second honors to a Moscatel from Málaga.

In 1502, after the Reconquista, Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand realized the economic potential of the Málaga wine export industry, and nationalized it, establishing the first Spanish brotherhood of vine growers – “Hermandad de Viñeros” in Málaga. Essentially – Spain’s first D.O.

By 1622, the historian Martin Roa estimated that of the 20,000 barrels produced in the region, 15,000 were exported by ship to ports around the world. Additional historical proof can be found in the auction notes of James Christie on Sept 7, 1769 which list the sale of 400 dozen bottles of Oloroso Madeira, Hock Añejo, Burgundy, Calcavellas, Malaga, and Tent.

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